Al Baqee

We were told that Jannat al Baqee is only open for men. Women were allowed up to the main gates from where they could only guess at what was inside. Okay, there is not much as in 'inside', what I meant was, you cant even get close enough to get any feeling about the place..

So the girls and I put Abdullah in the pram and off we went. We circled the whole area, going through construction sites and over alleys lined with pebbles, which made pushing the pram a herculean task! But the pram was a life-saver.. couldnt have carried him that much.



Finally, taking longer than we had thought we would, we arrived at the opposite side of the main entrance. From there the view was clear and open..



I said my prayers and just stood looking at it... an estimated 7 thousand Companions and then some ordinary Makkah dwellers are resting there.. Including the Mothers of the Believers, r.ahun., children of the Prophet, s.a.w., and his family members, may Allah be pleased with them all.



The map tells me that I was standing opposite to where the Mothers of the Believers are resting, r.ahun. The pictures are dark because it was after Maghrib time. My stay did not allow me to get there again. I have a picture from the net though which is very clear...



Jannat al Baqee used to have tombs and markings and shaded trees.. all grazed in the name of avoiding idolatry... here again I find myself unable to say what I feel and think...

The same is true of the first house the Prophet, s.a.w., lived in with his wife, Hazrat Khadija-tul-kubra, r.aha. The place where their children were born, where they lived through some early revelations of the Quran.. That place has been bulldozered.. and public toilets have been built on it!

I agree that idolatry must not be allowed to take root. I agree that people do the most impossible things - but cannot high fences and walls be built around such sacred sites? Why must they be defiled by filth? Public toilets, I ask you!!!

Sorry, but this just leaves me so distressed.. the thought - my beloved must have slept and walked and sat in that place.. the whoel area was his to roam and live in.. and now there are toilets above it... no.. the thought is too painful to continue with...

The Road to Makkah

Having spent our time in Madina for now, we hired a taxi for Makkah. Thats around a 4 hour drive with a good car. The route is the same. We could have taken a longer route, which would have taken us through the Badr battlegrounds. But the taxi driver didnt give us that option.. I would have loved to go that way. That would also have taken us through the route which our Prophet s.a.w. took, while migrating. But, there it is. Next time, we might choose to travel that road.

Well before we got on the road we stopped at the Miqaat for Madina dwellers. We women had showered and changed into our Ihram clothes at the hotel. There isnt a prescribed dress for women for their Ihram like it is with men. Yet we chose white scarves for ourselves and a different Abaya than we usually wear. Just gave the whole situation a formal touch. My husband showered at the Hotel too, but re-did his wudhu at the Meeqat and changed into his Ihram. We changed Abdullah too, and a right cute sight that was :)

So we prayed our two nafl of Intention. Prayed and got back in the car. In case someone forgets to bring something, everything from Ihrams to shoes are available there.

So. The surrounding areas on the road to Makkah are as barren and as uninhabited, save a few camels and horses, as from Jeddah to Madina. With the exception that the Makkah road is decorated with mountains. The nearer we came to Makkah, the more the mountains were covered with black rocks ... like so much snow on the mountain tops. We were told that these rocks have been laid there by the government, to avoid sandstorms wrecking too much damage.

Well, the more realistic answer was that Saudia is volcanic region. Those rocks were not just placed there, they were the result of seismic activity and volcanic eruptions. It really is a beautiful sight actually. So many mountains, such beautiful rock formations.. different colours.. there were mountains with red and golden stipes in the rocks.

I couldnt take pictures, the driver didnt want to stop. Stopped for a while at a small restaurant. Prayed, had some food. They had a good variety, but we opted for vegetables. I rather liked the mixed vegetables..

We entered into Makkah and then through different tunnels and over high roads carved through mountains. It is really fascinating. People have built homes on the mountains, all across. One feels one is actually just riding over mountains. Lovely.

Checked into the Al Ka'aki Hotel on Ijyad Road. Directly in-line with the Haram. The main gate, the Gate King Abdul Aziz, was the nearest for us.

Here too a 4-bed room cost us 300 the night. Same situation - they dont set much standard by cealing the room themselves. But call them in and they'll do it well enough.. one just has to stand by and watch.

So we dropped off our stuff...

Masjid Quba and Masjid Qiblatain

Masjid Qiblatain.

I dont think any one needs to be told the story of this masjid. Still, a short summary:
Muslims initially prayed towards the Bait-ul-muqaddis, in Jerusalem. This was a source of ridicule towards the Muslims from the Jews who criticised the Muslims of boasting of an individual religion, yet not having their own Qibla to pray to, rather of praying in the same direction as the Jews themselves.

This fact greatly troubled the Prophet, s.a.w, who longed to face the Ka'ba. He prayed intensively and thereupon this verse was revealed:

"Verily! We have seen the turning of your face towards the heaven; surely we shall turn you to a prayer direction (Qibla) that shall please you.."[surah al-Baqarah; 2:144]

It was while the noon prayer was in its second raka'ah, that Allah commanded the Prophet s.a.w, to turn his direction. He turned, and with him the congregation too. That is why this masjid is called Qiblatain - the one with the 2 qiblas.








Masjid Quba
The sign says it all:




Two rak'ah prayers hold the merit of an accepted Umrah here. The first ever and oldest masjid in Saudia Arabia. Its foundation stones were laid by the Prophet, s.a.w.

Another date garden and another well

Opposite to Hazrat Salman Farsi, r.a.'s well and home area is a vast date garden. The pictures were not clear enough so havent posted them but did want to add this information. That date garden was planted by the Prophet s.a.w., himself. Since Hazrat Salman, r.a. was a slave, the Jew who was his master demanded that a date garden be planted. When the trees bore fruit, he would release him. The Prophet s.a.w., planted the seeds himself, yet in the dark of the night the man removed those seeds. However the morning showed a full grown garden of palm trees. That was a miracle of the Prophet, s.a.w.


Then we have here the Beer-e-gharas



Madina needed a sweet water well. This was dug by the Prophet, s.a.w. The water did spring forth but was bitter. The Prophet s.a.w. touched his saliva to it and the water turned sweet. The water from this well was used to give the Prophet, s.a.w., his last bath.

The well is still active but a boundry has been built around it to stop people. I pushed my hands through this hole in the boundry, holding on to my camera for dear life! The original stones can be seen, though not very visible in the picture. The bricks were set later to give hold to the walls.

Place of Khandaq Battle and other places

The original trenches that survived through the ages were covered up and now all we see is a parking lot over the area. What remain, though how long no one knows, are 3 out of the 7 masajid where the Prophet s.a.w., and his companions erected their tents. There they waited for 40 days on the advice of Hazrat Salman Farsi. The logic behind it was that these trenches were an innovation in Arabia. No one had ever done it that way before. The suggestion was of Hazrat Salman Farsi. This proved to be the winning move in this battle and the Muslims defended themselves and their territory with ease.

Of the 7 initial masajid built at the places where the tents stood, only those built at the places of the Prophet, s.a.w., Hazrat Umar and Hazrat Ali, r.a., remain. The rest have been brought down. Again, apparently in an attempt to stem the unislamic practices held there...

This here is the Masjid Fatah. The place of the tent of the Prophet, s.a.w.


The Garden of Hazrat Uthman, r.a.



There was only one sweet water well in Madina, which was under the control of a Jew. Hazrat Uthman Ghani, r.a., bought half the well from him. They decided on set days and on the days of Hazrat Uthman r.a., there was long line of people waiting to fill water and somehow the water was also full to the brim of the well. Moreover, the filling of water was free of cost for all people of all religions. The days of the Jew saw the water receding to the bottom and not a soul in sight, to use it..
The area is now within a boundry and hold the well, which we are told still bubbles, the residential area of Hazrat Uthman, r.a., his masjid and his date garden. The whole area is off limits to the public.

Khaaq-e-shifa'a



This area hides beneath it a sacred sand. It was during one of the battles that the wounded Companions were wounded and the bleeding could not be stopped, nor the wounds healed. The Prophet s.a.w., took a handful of this sand and told them to cover their wounds with it. The wounds healed completely...

Here again, the authorities have seen it their duty to cover the place with normal sand and, to be absolutely sure that no one gets any benefit from it, have created gutters and filth water pipelines...

I dont think I want to say anything else on the matter...


The Well and Housing of Hazrat Salma Farsi



Here too the area has been wired in and rubbish thrown in... However the well is quite clearly to be seen..

Uhud pictures

This is the rock where the Prophet, s.a.w., was, when he was attacked and as a result of which his tooth was broken..



The arrow marks the place where he rested his hand while in pain - legend has it that the rock disintegrated - the dent in the rock can be seen. However the local authorities have taken great pain to eliminate any signs of the original impression. Visiting this area is deemed an offence - which makes it all the more a place to be seen. The locals have knowledge of all such places, being handed down through generations.



Here we see a split in the mountain flank - the Prophet was wounded and needed a place where he could be hidden, all the while with the enemy on his track. Allah ordered this mountain to split its self - thereby creating this opening where he could be hidden and healed. The opening is only just broad enough for a man to squeeze through.. Here too, people have left the marks of their disrespect. The area is cordoned off and a wall built. That wall keeps being broken down by visitors and is regularly rebuilt.



The mount of Uhud..
















The archers' cleft - initially a lot higher than this..

The Uhud Battle Ground

Cordoned off with a high metal cage-like fence. The area is barren, nothing green to be seen. And yet, birds resting here and there. The place should have been one for quiet contemplation. The sellers with their wares of all sorts and kinds spoiled the silence that should have prevailed out of respect for what had occured here.

The Battle of Uhud was actually a win for the Muslims. Had those 40 archers whom the Prophet s.a.w., had explicitly ordered to stand guard at the cleft of a small hill, not left their place. That was the only weak link in the defence of the Muslims and was most crucial to their safety. Those unfortunate men, thinking the battle won, left their place. All but nine. That gave the enemy the opening they had lacked and they attacked.

It left the Prophet, s.a.w., defenceless, save a few brave men. It resulted in his lip and shoulder being injured, which would cause him pain for months to come. And his front tooth to break and fall. He was injured and protected by only a handful.. The nine archers left at the cleft fell in obediance.

This place holds the remains of 70 Companions who were martyred that day, 67 together to one side, and Hazrat Hamzah, Hazrat Abdullah bin Ja'ash and Hazrat Musab bin Umayyar to another. Hazrat Hamzah lies alone, the other two Companions together.

The story of Uhud is such a tragic one, that I cannot write or think of it, without feeling immense pain. That was my feeling the day we went there too. And there all around me, there was the atmosphere of a picnic...

That small hill is still there, as well as the surrounding mountains still stand, silent reminder to eons past. There were a lot of people gathered on that hill. Chanting I dont know what, it was too far to make out the words. But even that I found sad. That hill carries upon it the blood of so many brave martyers, those who remained to defend it and those who came back to fight again. It was a resting place for the Prophet, s.a.w., he prayed upon it and slept upon it.. and now there was rubbish, and filth on and around it..

Hmmmm.. pictures follow in the next post.

26th May

Since we were free between fajr and zohar, we decided to use this time and do some visiting of historical sites. Found us a good Urdu speaking driver, which I would advise anyhow because there is no sense in visiting any place if you cant understand what you're supposed to be seeing. Before that we thought it wise to have a good breakfast.. Down by Pakistan House, across the road, a ten minute walk almost, you'll find Pakistani restaurants. They serve a good enough omelette and paratha. Just do remind them that you like your eggs salty :)

So, after that filling food, we set off in the car and let our guide take us around. I'll list it, with pictures and as much history as he told us.

1- Masjid Ziratain
This is the Masjid where the Prophet, s.a.w., wore the Zira'a, the armour, for two historical battles - the Battle of Uhud and the Battle of Khandak, or, the Trenches. Dont know how much who knows about which, so I'll add just a very short summary when I come to the Uhud Mountain.
















2- Masjid Musta'rah
The Prophet s.a.w., stopped here every Wednesday on his way to visit his Uncle Hazrat Hamzah. He spent time here, slept, prayed and continued his journey. The whole surrounding area is known as a resting place. The Masjid is opened at prayer times only.

25th May

What I forgot to mention about the ride was, there are toilets on the way, just be careful u have a change of clothing with you for Madina and your own wet/dry tissues..

So, in Madina then. The ride in to the city was melancholic - this is the city of my beloved! A very different feeling.. Though the initial impression of the city is a bit of a let down - lots of construction work going on, many high rise buildings - well, not as high as we have here but too high for the city of the Prophet s.a.w.

We had initially planned on staying at the Pakistan House. Don't know how it was because we cancelled that plan seeing that we'd have had to cross a busy main road to get across. This hotel, the New Al Ansar was good enough. Close by and their rates are not bad. 300 a night for a 4-bed room. Bring your own stuff for making tea though.

So, we had some food, which we'd bought with us, and a cuppa, and off we went to the Haram for Asr prayers.

You enter into the Haram area via huge green/gold gates. The ground is all smooth and cool marble.. Though you can actually roam around with your shoes on, yet the whole place is prayer ground, so I prefered taking mine off. Bring a bag, stuff the shoes in and hold it.. or, say a little prayer and place them in an easy place. Both things work.

Well, what to say. The sense of calm and quiet that prevails the city despite its construction work and busy roads is intensified here. Everything is quiet and calm. At least I had no inclination to chat or laugh around.. I was too aware of what grounds I was treading on.

Acceptedly, the area has changed a lot. Yet it was all the vicinity of the initial Masjid-e-Nabwi, s.a.w. Who knows, where I was standing? He might have stood at the same place at some point.. Hmmm..
















Spent some time there, got information about Ziyarat times and came back to the hotel to rest. It had been a long day and we were all drained. We did go back for prayers though, that was not to be missed.

Food was not such a great issue. We had some with us, courtesy our friends, and there are enough shops around. Amazingly, food rituals, that form a basic part of our life here are home, were so unimportant.. though yet again I cannot stress enough the importance of a good cup of tea

A dream come true!

I had been dreaming of going for my Umrah since ages and ages.. and somehow, the plan kept on shifting. But of course, the Invitation has to come from the Almighty - such matters cannot be rushed and suited to oneself.. Finally, it happened. But first things first..

We had applied through an agent, applying just for the visa since we had planned on driving. We ditched that plan though and bought tickets for Nas Air. Which, if you are flying from the UAE, is an excellent option. The fare is cheap, the seats comfortable and the flying good. They dont serve food, rather offer it at a price. Which is fine by me. We had sandwiches with us and just bought a cup of tea from them and that was good enough.

Took the flight in the afternoon, and arrived in Jeddah around Maghrib time. We had friends in Jeddah so it was easy to spend the night - I'd advise anyone else too to spend a night in Jeddah and then head for whereever it is that youre heading. In our case, it was to Madina first.

You get all sorts of Taxis for Madina - but 99 out of 100 they are Arabs. Nothing wrong with that if you can speak Arabic of course :) Otherwise it becomes a game of sign language and good guessing.

The route to Madina is mostly barren land. Bring enough water with you and some light snacks. And be sure to choose a taxi that is well airconditioned..

As I was saying, mostly barren lands, dusty and dry. They dont have any special eateries or fancy petrol stations like we are used to seeing here in the UAE between say Abu Dhabi and Dubai. I guess thats all a well thought out plan. The obvious object is to get from place A to place B without any loitering inbetween. I must say I agree with the thought. It helps you to keep the destination in sight.

We stayed at the New Al Ansar Palace. Long name, good enough location. I could see the Haram from our window, if I leaned out a bit. They dont set much store by toilet paper or tissue though.. :)

So - time to sign out.. will continue tomorrow Inshallah :)